At a time dominated by strict business looks, she launched her eponymous label, introducing femininity into a fashion world often marked by masculine styles.
Today, more than three decades later, Dorothee Schumacher still creates collections embodying strength, confidence, and elegance. The designer welcomed us into her home, and for five hours, we were privileged to be part of Dorothee Schumacher's world. In a conversation with our editor-in-chief, she shares her beginnings, the balance between business and family, and her creative process – a glimpse into the mind of a designer who has remained true to her vision while continuously evolving.
With her family by her side and a dedicated team, her label continues to inspire women worldwide.
AVIAIR: You founded your label in the 80s – a time still heavily influenced and dominated by major fashion houses. What inspired you back then to enter this industry and carve your own path?
DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER: The 80s were such a dynamic time but with a very strict dress code for businesswomen! I felt an undeniable drive to infuse femininity into the rigid power dressing that defined the era. I saw incredible women embracing masculine silhouettes to assert themselves professionally. But I always believed that true strength lies in femininity. It was so clear to me that a woman could embrace her power without compromising her grace. I wanted women to feel empowered by showcasing their feminine essence, not concealing it.
And then came your first T-shirt collection …
Exactly. The Tshirt collection was about creating a softer, more personal take on professional attire. Instead of a rigid blouse, I introduced a gentle satin neckline and soft, colorful jersey fabrics – something completely new at the time. I wanted women to exude strength without relying on masculine aesthetics. I remember a banker sharing how my designs made her feel both powerful and approachable. Her clients trusted her more because they saw not just authority, but also humanity – a woman they could connect with. That’s our unique power as women: to bring our authentic selves into every aspect of life. No matter the dress code, our individuality should always shine through.
You are a woman who is deeply invested in both her family and running a successful business. What role does fashion play in connecting the two?
When I started the label, I was 24 and expecting my first child. I knew I wanted both – a thriving career and a loving family. For me, there was never a question of choosing one over the other. Now, 35 years later, I can confidently say it was the right decision. Today, women are embracing their inner strength and staying true to who they are. They trust their intuition, whether it’s in their business decisions or their personal style – and that is truly inspiring.
Dorothee Schumacher’s fashion stands for much more than clothing. It’s a lifestyle – a world full of strength, creativity, and compassion.
A lot has changed in 35 years, even within your company. Your son Max has been CEO of your label since 2017 …
Yes! It’s incredibly empowering to see him grow beyond himself. It fills me with pride. It’s a gift.
How has the dynamic within your company changed with this collaboration?
The company has always been part of the family; from the beginning, it was included. Max and I work wonderfully together – he has my back, allowing me to focus on the creative side. Besides Max, I’m fortunate to have employees who have been with us for more than 25 or 30 years, embracing this family culture and supporting the company’s future. At the same time, we are constantly energized by the creativity of young talents who bring fresh perspectives and innovative ideas to our team. Together, we’re truly an incredible group.
That sounds like a wonderful unity of business and family.
Yes, everything flows together. Our family is involved in the company in various ways, each bringing their unique strengths. My son Florian, now a data scientist in the U.S., contributes by developing AI programs in the background. My youngest son Yoseph applies his analytical perspective and has recently optimized processes in our new logistics center. My daughter, living in London, wonderfully represents this new femininity and the next generation. It’s truly a gift to see how the children are connected to the company, and how our employees embrace the family which is a strong foundation for the future.
Your headquarters are located in a converted paper mill by the river Rhine. Why that location?
The factory has so much history; these beautiful brick walls exude an incredible aura, combined with a sense of modernity and openness. The French architect Yves Bayard transformed it into a modern, lightfilled workspace for us while retaining its warmth. It’s an open space that fosters creativity. Bayard also understood the impact of modern architecture in attracting next generation talents. It’s almost like a stage where our ideas can flow freely, and the team can work organically. The close connection between departments – from design to purchasing – holds the entire process together.
With so many creative people coming together, so much positive energy: Take us inside the process. How do you work? Are there any rituals?
All starts with a clear vision for the next collection. I guess my talent is a storyteller to my team so everyone can feel the same picture. They all have their own strengths and creativity, but there’s a clear energy and vision for how our collections should look. It’s less about fixed rituals and more about the feeling we create together. We try to keep communication open and respectful, and I think that’s the secret. The open spaces create transparency in the process, in product development – everything is in flow. This way, everyone contributes to the collection. I’m surrounded by a wonderful team. When this special combination of people, the process, and the final product come together, then you can feel the magic in every single piece.
You try on every sample yourself, don’t you? Yes, I try every sample on to get a feel for the pieces. I need to feel the piece in order to speak about it or give my advice. I have the luxury of being surrounded by a diverse group of women every day. It’s fascinating to see how the garments work – their effect – on different types of women. This also gives me a picture of how the pieces will resonate with my clients.
In addition to your womenswear collection, you also have a special bag collection. What’s your focus when designing a bag? Every bag should not only look beautiful but also be a reliable companion – whether for travel, everyday life, or special occasions. I wanted to create a collection that supports women in every situation. That’s why it was important to me to design different sizes – so that there’s something for every aspect of life. The Half Moon Bag, for instance, is a perfect blend of style and functionality. It sits close to the body, has enough room for essentials, and feels good no matter where you’re going.
I noticed the unique D-rings on each bag – a real highlight for me. What was your inspiration for them?
The bags are meant to be a true experience for the wearer. The idea with the Drings actually came from my fascination with craftsmanship and the desire to give a bag a unique, interactive touch. These Drings are not only visually interesting but also invite the wearer to play – they create a soft jingling sound that I find simply charming. Perhaps it’s my South American soul that inspired this artisanal detail. It’s about building a connection to the bag, experiencing it as a companion in everyday life, and enjoying all its details – including the Drings.
Looking around, your home has such a warm, inviting feel … It radiates incredible hospitality and a family atmosphere. It makes me curious: how do you celebrate a family occasion like Christmas?
When the kids were younger, we used to go all out with a big Christmas tree and decorations throughout the house – I love dressing up the house and transforming it, especially at Christmas. In recent years, we’ve shifted to celebrating the simple joy of being together, away from home. We take beautiful trips together, and really, that shared time is the gift we give to each other.
We’ve read and heard that you travel frequently, both for work and personally, not just around the holidays. Would you describe yourself as cosmopolitan? That’s a good question. To me, a true cosmopolitan is someone who has lived all over the world, speaks multiple languages. I only lived in Italy for a year and a half, but I love to travel and enjoy bringing back what I experience, weaving it into my home. When I look around now, I’d say my heart and my longings are definitely cosmopolitan.
Your home really is truly unique, filled with memories and wonderful pieces. We've heard that things get moved around here frequently, new arrangements created …
Yes, that's a part of it – it’s like a kind of external renewal. You learn something new, you see something new, and I build a bit of my world from that. It relaxes me, makes me happy. It’s a way for me to translate my imagination into something visual. I carry the scenes I create here in my heart.
How does that influence your fashion? A fresh start always requires incredible strength, just like every new collection. There’s a golden thread running from one collection to the next, each demanding that same energy and vision. I have to hold onto that vision, creating and feeling without really thinking about it. Everything is connected to everything else.
BETWEEN BUSINESS AND BOHEMIA – DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER & THE POWER OF FEMININITY
Alongside fashion, you now have a furniture collaboration. How did that come about?
The collaboration with the Colombian company, Tucurinca, started with my love for their vibrant patterns, colors, and craftsmanship. I discovered their furniture on a trip and was captivated. I thought to myself: this needs to be shared with the world. These pieces exude so much wanderlust and artistry; they bring a bit of joy into any space. Initially, I had the furniture just for my own home, and I love that on dreary winter days, I can look out from my kitchen and these pieces remind me: Summer will return soon.
So originally furniture wasn’t even intended to be part of your collection?
At first, we just used the pieces as props in our fashion shoots, but customers started asking about them, so we integrated them into the collection. I love that these pieces are now part of the Dorothee Schumacher world. We now have color combinations made exclusively for my label, and we created the “Love Chair” ensemble because, in my opinion, you can never have too much love in the world.
With everything going on professionally, how do you manage to unwind?
I create small sanctuaries at home. When I look around, I’m transported to another world. With beautiful images, fantasies, lucky pennies (which I collect), a lot of animals and even a luckily pig in my front yard, and so on. These moments of happiness are also part of a routine I’ve established: my morning Yoga and Pilates practices. Nothing interrupts that – not family or work. That time is sacred to me. I might get up one, two, or three hours before everyone else, and that’s ME time. Time for grounding, quiet, and creativity. I believe it’s something we all need today, especially as mothers and as entrepreneurs.
The UNICEF project in Nepal to support young women’s education is very close to your heart. Your daughter is also socially active.
Helping young women realize their potential is incredibly fulfilling. But the most beautiful thing is seeing that commitment passed on. My daughter Colette recently raised funds to start her own project in Ethiopia. It truly is the greatest gift to see this compassion carried forward by the next generation.
